Where In Iowa: Ledges State Park

The last time I visited Ledges State Park I was 10 years old with my parents.  I’m not entirely sure why I waited so long to come back.  But a long Labor Day weekend provided the perfect opportunity to return.

Pea’s Creek lazily winds thru Ledges State Park

 

This state park is an easy 40 min drive from West Des Moines.  It was suggested to visit during the week as the park gets a lot of traffic on weekends.  That was good advice.  It’s Thursday morning and very quiet upon my arrival.  I had the trails mostly to myself as the first person I encountered wasn’t until 10:30am.

Park info:  Ledges State Park

 

Ledges was established as a state park in 1914 making it one of the first state parks in Iowa.  Several of its park structures/buildings were constructed in the 1930’s.

The park is well known for its gorgeous sandstone cliffs as the result of glacial melting almost 13,000 years ago which gives the park its name.

 

The scenery is fantastic which ranges from bluffs, scenic overviews, sandstone ledges, streams, bridges, and wildlife.  I’ve already made a promise that I must return during peak foliage time to see the changing of the leaves.  I think that would be amazing with the dense tree line.

 

Yes, I traded in my running shoes for a trail workout today.  But don’t let that fool you.  Get ready for some exercise in the form of STAIRS!  There’s plenty of staircases on these nature trails.  Honestly, I was too busy taking pictures to notice how steep some of the climbs were but I know I burned a lot of calories today.  This was much more fun than a long run!

The Old Indian Trail — Here comes my stair workout!

 

 

The park’s trail system always seemed to branch off at just the right time.  At the point the trail starts to ascend higher, another trail would be available at a lower altitude if you didn’t feel like a strenuous climb.  But I was always up for the challenge.  Higher climbs I hoped meant more spectacular views.

The Old Indian Trail – More striking staircases for me to climb!

 

Two key items that everyone should bring (other than a camera):

  • Bug spray – Yes there are plenty of bugs here especially in the summer.
  • Hiking or tennis shoes – A good sturdy pair of shoes is necessary. Tevas or sandals will not provide proper support.

Pea’s Creek

 

The 4-mile trail system varies in difficulty as well as how they are paved.  Trails may be lined with crushed rock, packed dirt, while others may even have slabs of concrete.  Some trails have steep rock staircases while others have wooden steps.  It varies depending which trail you are on and is another good reason why it’s important to have sturdy shoes for your hike.

While keeping sure footing is important, there are handrails throughout the park to help navigate the more difficult portions of the trails.

Hog’s Back Trail

 

Of course, some may prefer a water route and wade thru the stream.  Pea’s Creek winds along Canyon Road and allows a unique way for viewing the sandstone since the water is only ankle deep.

Pea’s Creek — it’s not exactly Pammel Park (where Middle River runs over the whole road) but the kids will love driving thru it!

 

Canyon Drive snakes through the park and can occasionally close due to flooding from the Des Moines River.  In fact, they even have a “flood pole” located in the lower area of the park to measure major flood water levels.

Hog’s Back Trail

 

The trails are marked at each trailhead but I couldn’t help but notice they change.  A trail name may start out as one thing but then it merges into another trail and by the time you get to the end, you realize you were on a completely different trail than what you started on.  The lack of signage doesn’t indicate when you switch to a new trail.  This isn’t a huge deal if you’re out wandering aimlessly as I was.

Exquisite butterflies fluttered about the park

 

Picnic tables and grill sites are plentiful throughout the park with amazing views on all sides.  You can’t pick a bad spot to have your picnic!

Stunning views can be found at every picnic site

 

Two shelter houses are available by reservation for large gatherings.  The Oak Woods picnic shelter was my favorite as it’s nestled under a huge canopy of shade trees.  Restrooms are also conveniently located nearby.

The Oak Woods Shelter House

 

The other shelter was named after the park’s first custodian, Carl Fritz Henning, who was appointed in 1921.  Both shelters can be reserved through the park’s online reservation system for Ledges State Park.

Natural sandstone formations can be found along the Hutton Memorial trail

 

For those looking to enjoy water activities, a boat ramp is located in the Lower Ledges area of the park that provides access to the Des Moines River for canoeists, kayakers and tubers.

When you first enter the park, you should turn directly into the campground area.  Because at the entrance to the campground is a small visitor center with maps and brochures that are very informative and will help you navigate the park.

Ledges State Park Playground

 

The newly renovated campsites are spacious and also offer privacy in between each other with hedges and trees.  If you feel like an adventure during your stay, try one of the hike-in sites.  Campsites are offered both as first-come, first serve while some allow for advance reservations.

Campground reservations: Ledges Campground

The campground amenities include a shower house, restrooms, a trailer dump station and playground for the kids.

Spacious private campsites at Ledges State Park

 

Located at the edge of the park boundary is the Lost Lake.  Normally when we are not in a drought, the lake would be full.  Today it was empty.  But there was still a lot of other sights here to enjoy.  A beautiful trail wraps around the entire lake.  It’s actually a lot longer than it looks on the trail map.

The Lost Lake Trail may not look that big but it’s a lot longer than you think especially with all the side trails that branch off not pictured on the map

 

A beautiful trail surrounds the Lost Lake

 

If you stay to the far right when you first get on the trail, you will see glimpses of the Des Moines River.  There are small dirt paths that deviate off the main trail to scenic overlook points of the river that are breathtaking.

Amazing views of the Des Moines River can be seen from the trail

 

As I walked the shady trail, I stumbled upon a green algae pond.  It was completely engulfed in algae but that made it somewhat eerily beautiful it its own way.  I even managed to spot a frog hiding in plain sight perfectly matched against the green water.

This algae pond was striking in its own right

 

During my time spent at the Lost Lake was the first I encountered anyone else.  I had been alone up until now.  Bird watchers had come to the park this morning because there are bird houses/nesting poles set up in the middle of the lake.  Even without water, some birds are still nesting here.

This clever frog found the perfect camouflage in the green algae pond

 

While there may not have been any water in the lake today, the trails were overflowing with goldenrod.  So beautiful!  There was still so much to see and enjoy even without the lake.

Beautiful bridges on the Lost Lake trail

 

Here is the funny and somewhat embarrassing part.  I didn’t get lost in Ledges despite the fact the trails merged into each other and you really had no idea what trail you were on.  The Lost Lake had one big loop trail around it essentially (with smaller trails that branched off occasionally)  And for the life of me, I couldn’t figure out how to get back to the parking lot.  It wasn’t a huge problem as I just asked someone if I was heading in the right direction.  But I never thought I would need a trail of bread crumbs to get out considering the map of the lake made it seem relatively easy to navigate.

Normally full, the Lost Lake was completely empty today due to the drought.  Off to the right, you can see a nesting pole/house for water fowl

 

Four hours of my morning flew by in a blink of an eye.  But at the same time, I had my fill of hiking after a half day.  And it was time for lunch.  Just 5 minutes down the road in the small town of Luther was a great BBQ joint I had found on Trip Advisor (oh I do love my Trip Advisor!)

In the tiny town of Luther, is Whatcha Smokin BBQ & Brew where the finest smoked meats can be sampled.  The restaurant has a spacious dining room with garage doors.  The doors were open slightly today allowing the breeze to come in.  Out back, I found ample patio seating as well.

Lunch today at Whatcha Smokin BBQ & Brew

 

I had a very hard time deciding what I wanted because everything that was coming out of the kitchen smelled so good.  I finally settled on the Pit Master Plate which features 1, 2 or 3 smoked meats (your choice), two sides and Texas Toast.  I figured this dish would allow me to sample as many things as possible.  And yes, it IS a lot of food (definitely plan on taking leftovers home!)

A spacious indoor dining room with plenty of patio seating out back

 

My friendly waitress was happy to give me her suggestions and I chose the smoked brisket and pulled pork.  The cheesy potatoes were my favorite side but the coleslaw was excellent as well.

The restaurant was quite busy with locals who know where good food can be found.  And yet, my food came out in 5 minutes after ordering.  Fast and friendly service here!  It was a delicious meal to end today’s fun outing.

Pit Master Plate: This photo does not do this meal justice (there were stacks of meat piled on top of each other)  The brisket was my favorite along with the cheesy potatoes!

 

While I was content to head back to Des Moines after lunch, there is a lot you could still do in the area.  Boone is located only 4 miles north of Ledges featuring the Boone & Scenic Valley Railroad as well as the Kate Shelly High Bridge.  Eleven miles south in Madrid, you can visit the famous High Trestle Trail/bridge which receives a lot of bikers daily.  All this is just a short car ride from my house.  I will definitely be back this Fall!