Where in Iowa: Winterset
My favorite picnic spot is only about a 30-minute drive from my house in West Des Moines. That picnic setting happens to be the Winterset City Park. The name itself is somewhat amusing because Winterset is hardly a city. It’s another charming Iowa small town with a population of 5,190.
Located in Madison County, the town serves as the county seat. The town of Winterset was originally named “Summerset”. But due to unseasonable coldness, it was renamed to Winterset.
Winterset is surrounded by heavily wooded areas. These trees are the reason why we have a family Fall picnic here every year. It’s truly something special to enjoy the scenic landscape with its colorful tapestry of changing leaves in the Fall. For that reason, a summer picnic will just not do.
Traveling on Interstate 80, you will take Highway 169 south to Winterset. This highway is also known as the Covered Bridge Scenic Bi-Way. Madison County is well known for its brightly colored red covered bridges. In fact, you may have heard of the bestselling book “The Bridges of Madison County” that was made into a movie (1995) with Clint Eastwood.
Originally 19 covered bridges were built in Madison County to help protect the roadway as it was cheaper to replace the boards of the roof and walls than the heavy beams of the bridges. Some of the bridges are 140 years old and only six bridges remain today. Note: The Cedar Bridge is being re-built due to fire damage (arson).
The Winterset town square becomes a hub of activity during the annual Covered Bridge Days Festival
Upon arrival in the center of town, Winterset resembles most Iowa small towns. It has a recognizable “town square” with a historic courthouse sitting in the middle. The courthouse was built in 1868 and then rebuilt in 1876 after being partially destroyed by a fire.
The town square comes alive every second weekend in October when it hosts the annual Madison County Covered Bridge Days Festival. Festival events include crafts and antique booths, food vendors, car show, a covered bridges tour, live entertainment and more. Growing up in southwest Iowa, attending this annual celebration became a family tradition that we always looked forward to.
Madison County Covered Bridge Festival
Winterset is also the birthplace of actor John Wayne. Only a few blocks from the Winterset City Park, you can visit John Wayne’s modest four-room house where he was born. The house has been restored to reflect its appearance in 1907. Tickets for admission to the house can be purchased at the nearby John Wayne Birthplace Museum gift shop (the actual museum is located a few blocks away on South John Wayne Drive). John Wayne Birthplace Museum
You can’t help but notice the house as you drive to the city park as both his birthplace and the city park are located on East South Street.
A few blocks from the city park is John Wayne’s birthplace restored to its original state in 1907
With 76 acres, there is a lot to explore within Winterset City Park. There are numerous picnic options with various shelters, picnic tables, and grills. Most of the shelters have fireplaces which is perfect for Fall picnics. All year long when the heavy rains knock down tree limbs and sticks in our yard, I’ll throw them on the side of my house, so we have firewood to burn later in the shelter’s fireplace.
Most shelters have fireplaces which are perfect for a bonfire during a Fall picnic
The Arbor Shelter located at the north end of the park is a popular place for weddings with its canopy archway. Winterset City Park Shelters
The beautiful Arbor Shelter is very popular for weddings in the park
While the food is being prepared, family members can enjoy using the playground equipment or an impromptu game in the park’s sand volleyball pit.
Playground equipment keeps the kids entertained
The park itself is full of photographic opportunities especially in the Fall with the changing leaves including its own covered bridge. The Cutler-Donahoe Covered Bridge was built in 1870 over the North River and later moved to the city park in 1970.
Near the park’s covered bridge is another beautiful bridge made of stone that was featured in the movie The Bridges of Madison County.
The Cutler-Donahoe Covered Bridge is located in Winterset City Park
Situated across from the covered bridge is a fun hedge maze if you feel like wandering through the labyrinth to the sun dial found in the middle.
Try your luck in the park’s hedge maze that contains a sun dial in the center
Recreational vehicles will enjoy the onsite campground facilities with 34 sites including both electric for RV’s and primitive tent sites. Winterset City Park Campground
For more info about park hours and seasonal open and close dates: Winterset City Park Info
A beautiful stone bridge that was featured in the movie The Bridges of Madison County
But the most striking park landmark is the Clark Tower located within its boundaries. The hike to the tower is 1 mile but it’s a narrow road with no shoulder in some places that you must share with vehicles. It can also be quite dusty as cars pass by. For that reason, I suggest you drive up to the tower versus hiking.
Clark Tower in Winterset City Park
The drive to the tower is very scenic itself. Be mindful of deer especially during the Fall season. The speed limit is only 10 mph so you’re not in danger of hitting one if you are obeying that. If anything, the deer are one more magical thing about the park to enjoy. The one-way road is narrow as it twists and winds to the top. Vehicles are limited to 20 feet in length.
The drive to Clark Tower is quite scenic
Once you emerge at the top of the bluff where the tower sits, you will find a small parking area. There is a hiking trail from the parking lot if you’d like to explore through the trees.
The historic Clark Tower was erected in 1926 as a memorial to the county’s first pioneer family. The tower stands 25 feet tall and is constructed of limestone with breathtaking views of the Middle River valley below.
The first floor of Clark Tower has deep stone windows that are great for picture taking. I distinctly remember standing in them for family photos every year.
Watch out for deer on your drive to Clark Tower – this cute little buck ran out in front of my car
The deep stone windows of Clark Tower make for great photos of the kids when they stand inside
Breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside from the top of Clark Tower
A hiking trail extends off the Clark Tower parking lot
After you have explored the Winterset City Park, it’s time to head to Pammel Park just a 4 miles west of town. Pammel Park is one of the first state parks in Iowa dedicated in 1928. It’s well known for its limestone ridge which is called the “backbone”. On top of the “backbone” is in fact, Backbone Shelter nestled among the trees with several hiking trails branching off it.
Backbone Shelter at Pammel Park built in the 1930’s is available on a first come, first serve basis
Water activities in the park include kayaking, tubing and fishing in the Middle River that runs through the park.
One of the more unique features of the park is the road that runs right through Middle River! That’s right! The river is shallow enough at this point to allow you to drive through it. The Middle River Ford was built in the 1920’s providing vehicle access to the west end of the park.
But not to worry. During normal river flows, vehicles can safely cross the river while maintaining a water depth of 2 to 4 feet. When heavy rains cause the river to rise, giant flood gates are closed to prevent vehicle access.
Even though I have driven through the river many times, I am always unnerved every time I do it. It’s certainly fun but a little scary at the same time.
I also remember fishing from the Middle River Ford cement blocks. Catfish congregate just below the ford’s rushing waters.
A unique feature about Pammel Park is the main road that runs thru Middle River. This is known as the Middle River Ford.
Believe it or not, the road is completely driveable at this water depth even though it may not appear so
Multiple picnic sites and shelters are available throughout the park. Trees are also a focal point of the park as some of the oldest recorded Oak trees in the state grow from the cracks within the limestone surface.
Campgrounds and cabins are available for an extended stay within the park. For more park info: Pammel Park
Pammel Park
Growing up, I always remember shuffling through the mounds of leaves looking for buckeyes that had fallen. Buckeyes are a hard, dark brown nut that comes encased in a soft shell. When they become ripe, they fall from the buckeye trees, sometimes still within their shell and sometimes bursting out. It was always fun looking for them.
What do you do with buckeyes? Well as a kid, we learned they explode loudly when thrown in the bonfire. As an adult, I collected them to display in my Fall decorations in my home. They are very pretty, especially when they are shined up a bit.
Five miles of hiking trails wind through Pammel Park
The famous Harmon Tunnel is the only highway tunnel in Iowa and greets visitors as they enter Pammel Park. It was dug in 1858 originally as a chute to divert water from Middle River to help power a saw mill. The tunnel was later expanded and reinforced to accommodate vehicles. As a child, I never missed an opportunity to shout in the tunnel on the drive through to hear my voice echoing.
The Harmon Tunnel at Pammel Park is the only highway tunnel in Iowa
The state of Iowa is not well known for its rattlesnake population. However, it is worth mentioning that Madison County has several prominent rattlesnake dens. For the most part, this is not an issue especially if you visit in the Fall when they are likely to go into hibernation. I have seen one during the summer months. It had found its way into the hedge maze at the city park. I suspect it was attracted to the hot gravel chips that make up the floor of the hedge maze. I also saw one laying in the middle of the road at the entrance to Pammel Park during unseasonable heat of a late Indian Summer. It too was likely attracted to the warmth of the asphalt. In my 47 years, I’ve only seen two rattlesnakes. With those statistics, I think it’s safe to say, you’re not likely to see them. However, you should still be aware of them when tramping around in nature.
While you’re at Pammel Park, consider visiting the nearby Roseman Covered Bridge, built in 1883 located only a few miles away. Each covered bridge has its own rich history. If you like ghost stories, the Roseman Covered Bridge is said to be haunted.
A county jail escapee was trapped at the bridge by a sheriff posse in 1892. The convict simply vanished into thin air and he was never found by the posse. Other stories around forbidden love had a young suitor mysteriously vanishing at the bridge as well.
The famous Roseman Covered Bridge is haunted
People have reported feeling a cold spot in the middle of the bridge while others have seen full body apparitions, shadowy figures, unexplained vibrations, and hearing shouting voices. Dogs have their hair stand on end or behave strangely when walking through it as if they sense something. Central Iowa Paranormal Investigators picked up an EVP (electronic voice phenomenon) with their equipment that said, “just leave”. Visit at night if you’re looking for a paranormal experience!
The Roseman Covered Bridge has a nice little gift shop with souvenirs of the Roseman Bridge as well as from the movie “The Bridges of Madison County”. The quaint little store features a lot of John Wayne memorabilia since Winterset is John Wayne’s birthplace. We also really enjoyed their wine tasting area featuring the local wines made at the Covered Bridge Winery as well as Iowa made products such as honey, mustard, jams and jellies.
Gift Shop Hours: Roseman Bridge Gift Shop
As I head back toward the interstate, I decide to stop at the Hogback Covered Bridge which conveniently is found only 3 miles off Highway 169 and just north of Winterset.
The Hogback Covered Bridge was built in 1884 and was still in use up til the mid 1990’s. It remains in its original location however a more modern bridge is now in use next to it to preserve the historic covered bridge against wear and tear.
The Hogback Covered Bridge is located only 3 miles off Highway 169
The Hogback Covered Bridge gets its name from the limestone ridge formed at the west end of the valley. Yes, the valley itself is gorgeous! As I noticed a beautiful field of baled hay next to the covered bridge with the changing leaves of red maples in the background. Scenes like this are plentiful throughout the valley area around the bridge.
The views of the valley surrounding the Hogback Covered Bridge are spectacular
More historic sites could be found as I made my way back to the highway. If you continue past the covered bridge toward the highway, you will stumble upon the North River Stone Schoolhouse. It is not marked with a sign so keep your eyes peeled as it sits on top of the hillside.
This is a modest structure that signified a simpler time. A one-room stone schoolhouse with a pump out front for water and an outhouse out back sits on manicured grounds. It remains locked but you can peek in the windows to see the desks. The schoolhouse was built in 1874 out of local limestone and served as a rural school from 1874 until 1945. Its location is a quiet and peaceful one tucked away on the back gravel roads.
The North River Stone Schoolhouse can be found 1 mile from the Hogback Covered Bridge
Just outside of Winterset, you will also find the Cedar Covered Bridge. Built in 1883, the Cedar Bridge spans 76 feet in length and is the only covered bridge open to vehicles. Sadly the bridge was almost destroyed by arson, however, an exact replica was rebuilt along with the addition of beautiful landscaping and picnicking areas. The two gazebos that were also added are a popular spot for outdoor weddings.
The Cedar Covered Bridge – The only covered bridge you can still drive through!
Our last stop was to the longest covered bridge measuring 122 feet. The Holliwell Covered Bridge was built in 1880 and can be found in its original site over the Middle River southeast of Winterset. This beautiful bridge is no longer in use but was featured in the movie “The Bridges of Madison County.”
The Holliwell Covered Bridge is the longest covered bridge measuring 122 feet
This is just a taste of what Winterset and Madison County has to offer. Speaking of tastes, a stop at the Winterset Cidery offers a taste of freshly made cider you can’t buy in the grocery store. Surprisingly, their cider comes in an assortment of flavors making a great souvenir or unique gift. Winterset Cidery
One could easily spend an entire day or two in Winterset and its surrounding parks and bridges coming away inspired by its stunning beauty. If you haven’t visited, pencil in a date this Fall when the landscape is at its finest!
