Thailand Day 9 – Cave of Death
Monday Oct 20th, Day 9 – Afternoon: Cave of Death
The afternoon of Day 9 is what I affectionately refer to as the “Cave of Death”. Today was easily the most physically challenging day on the trip especially with the climb up to the Tiger Cave Temple earlier that morning. Okay I admit, nobody actually died in the cave. Although I had a slight mishap where I could have really got hurt. And then of course, there were those photos of the dead monk at the cave site that resembled an autopsy. But I’m getting ahead of myself. Back to the story where I left off…. (warning: graphic image below)
Today’s lunch spot gives new meaning to the words bag lunch
After lunch, we went to Promthapratanporn Cave. This experience is like nothing you’d ever have in the U.S. It felt like a crash course in advanced cave spelunking. As we arrived, a Buddhist monk came out and motioned us toward the entrance of the cave. On this trip, we have met more people than I had thought we would who attempted to speak broken English. Meanwhile, he spoke none. In fact, he didn’t speak at all which is not uncommon depending on what precepts (vows) he has taken. Some monks take a vow of silence. But there was no doubt, he was overjoyed to see us and quite friendly in his own silent way.
We begin our winding trek deep into the 1st cave
We’re not sure if we are supposed to follow him but we do as we head into the first cave. The main cavern is enormous with places for worship and meditation. But this is where it quickly changes. We are led down a smaller passage off the main cavern that continued to shrink as if I was entering Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. Just when we think we can’t go any further, he shows us another opening. To navigate this next pathway, we crawl on our hands and knees and soon we are covered in sweat and cave mud. Very rarely did we ever stand upright throughout this cave tour.
It was a tight fit in some spots and we wore the evidence of today’s outing on our hands and knees
We finally came to a wall that seems to glisten with its smooth limestone sheen. Up and over, the monk beckons to us, as there is a tunnel opening at the top we must navigate to get to. I am the last to climb the wall. I realize there is not much to grab onto and very few footholds. Just as I crest the top of the wall, I lost my footing and suddenly, I’m falling. The drop down that wall seemed to play out in slow motion. I just went limp which is probably the only thing that saved me. How I was lucky enough to escape that fall without any broken bones, I’m not sure. It must have been divine intervention because I assure you, I did not land on anything soft. The floor felt like hard marble where there wasn’t jagged rocks interspersed. I was rather startled but realized I was ok. Of course, I was even dirtier than before along with a few scrapes.
This is the top of the wall from the other side and the hole we were aspiring to get thru – Erik made it without incident
Although my fall was slightly alarming, no one left the cave unscathed. Throughout today’s adventure, we all sustained minor injuries of some kind whether that was hitting our heads on the top of the cave tunnel or a blistering scrape from a stalactite along our backs during one of many army crawls through the narrow cave tunnels.
The monk didn’t seem to notice our difficulties as he was completely nimble thru all the passageways and still surprisingly CLEAN. Happy and joyful, he seemed intent on showing us a scenic view as he gestured toward the ledge of a boulder. We navigated across that ledge that only supported our tippy toes all the while holding onto jungle vines to balance ourselves so that we don’t fall into the steep ravine below. What had we gotten ourselves into? An innocent cave tour had abruptly turned into an Indiana Jones movie!
Joe is about to use the surrounding vines to enable himself to get across to the scenic overlook
Words could not fully describe our quest. It was the most unique experience I had ever had while we were downright dreading the thought of traversing that same obstacle course to get out. Thankfully the monk must have seen the apprehension on our faces and showed us a simpler way out. Sanctuary was in sight!
At the conclusion of our cave tour, the monk led us out to a water barrel to wash up. We were filthy, sweaty pigs after that escapade and were grateful for the opportunity to get clean. He then invited us into his living quarters. Quickly our attention fell on the skeleton sitting on the opposite wall adorned with flowers. This skeleton was also accompanied by some very graphic photos of the deceased as well as photos of him alive. We quickly realized the monk’s home was some sort of holy shrine and almost a living tomb, if you will.
Upon entering the monk’s home, a skeleton mounted on the wall caught our attention
But what exactly was THIS? Later I would discover many temple caves in Thailand also had bizarre photos of internal organs and split cadavers intending to reinforce the temporary nature of the body and help the monks to focus on more spiritual matters. And yet, through an odd game of Thai charades and sign language with the monk, it appeared this particular skeleton was someone of higher rank and great importance. Could these photos in fact BE this skeleton? The graphic photos displayed the deceased with his torso split open just as I had read. In silence, the monk made gestures explaining they took his heart out. He wouldn’t speak to us so it’s hard to know exactly what we were seeing.
It was morbid and mesmerizing all at the same time. We all exchanged questioning looks as we indulged our spiritual host with this portion of the tour.
I know its graphic but to fully appreciate what we saw that day, you need to view the photos pinned next to the skeleton
As I walked through the monk’s modest dwelling, I quickly became aware that we were the first visitors he had probably seen in quite some time which explained why he was so friendly to us, even to me and Becky (despite the fact we were females). The sign that advertised Promthappratanporn Cave wasn’t on any map or guide book I have ever seen. In fact, we had stumbled upon it during our motor bike adventure through the Thailand countryside that day by chance. I don’t think he sees much traffic.
While there was another cave on the premises he beckoned toward, the first cave tour had proved to be so challenging that Joe and I decided to pass on exploring the other one. I was still feeling a bit skittish from my fall down that cave wall. And I was reminded, there are no ambulances coming to my rescue in the middle of nowhere if I get hurt. Becky and Erik continued on with the second cave tour and promised to take pictures while we caught our breath and rested. Afterward, they assured me the second cave was much more manageable and very beautiful. I now wish I had gone in to see it.
The second cave was much more open with a giant cavern exposed to the outside
A ride to Kao Phanom Bencha National Park on our motor bikes cooled us off. The park is set in a very dense forest spanning 19 square miles, featuring numerous waterfalls, and includes Krabi’s tallest mountain. It is one of the least visited parks which made it even more enjoyable.
The highlight of the park was Huai To Falls, a 7-tiered waterfall that stands 260 feet tall. Also nearby is Huai Sakhe Falls which is a waterfall of three cascades. Wildlife is abundant in the park with over 200 species of birds, numerous monkey species, leopards, black bear, mouse deer, and tapir.
Huai To Falls — the 7-tiered waterfall
We enjoyed wading in the tiered waterfalls that kept us cool while a few other park visitors swam in the bottom pools. However we discovered upon leaving the park, Becky and Erik’s motor bike sustained a flat tire somewhere along the way. This was not surprising as several of the roads were muddy, littered with giant rocks, loose gravel and potholes. Not all of the roads were intended for motor bikes and I suspect the drive up to the mountain resort for breakfast earlier may have been the culprit.
What do we do now? We are in the middle of nowhere. In Phanat Nikhom, we had experienced such warm hospitality when they took care of Joe’s abscess so quickly. In Krabi, we were treated with the same genuine friendliness. But here in the rural countryside, we experienced complete indifference to our situation. House after house, we attempted to ask directions to the nearest repair shop. It was a startling wakeup call as I soon realized no one would help us. Becky who had been living in Thailand for 3 years knew enough of the language to speak Thai with them but they flat out refused to speak with her and turned away from us.
Why would the people in town behave so differently than those living in the countryside? Perhaps the town folk understand tourism is an important economic factor in Thailand. While farmers could care less – they don’t need tourism for the livelihood of their farms. That’s the only explanation I can offer.
I’m certainly not going to use this blog to get political and yes, we have some very serious immigration reform issues facing the U.S. today. Having said that, this was an eye opening experience to have that shoe on the other foot. Door after door was closed on us and we all started to get frustrated, a bit testy and a little worried. As a visitor in someone else’s country, we were suddenly deemed unworthy of being helped because we were foreigners. I’ll never forget how that felt that day.
Finally after walking a few miles, we came upon a rural country store that had an attached garage with an air pump. Alas the tire was ruined and would not hold air. Fortunately, we were able to get a cell signal here and used our cell phone to call the guest house we were staying at in Krabi. My faith in the Thai people was restored. Because within the hour, the owners came to our rescue! I’m not sure how many commercial hotel/resorts would have done that. The guesthouse owner loaded up our scooters in the back of the truck as it had just started to rain.
What a day! Tomorrow we head to Bangkok as our time in Thailand starts to wind down.
The guesthouse owners came to our rescue, loaded up the bikes, while Erik & Becky hung on during an exciting ride back
